Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia, meaning “Holy Wisdom,” is an ancient Byzantine church in the Sultanahmet district of Istanbul. It served as the center of worship of Constantinople from 537 AD until the Ottoman Turks conquered the city in 1453.

“Solomon, I have outdone you!” Byzantine Emperor Justinian (lived 482—565, reigned 527—565 AD) reportedly said when he walked into the newly completed building. Others were also impressed. It is said that those who attended a service in the Hagia Sophia didn’t know if they were in Heaven or on Earth. It remains one of the most outstanding examples of Byzantine architecture in the world.

History of the Hagia Sophia

360 AD: The First Hagia Sophia

The first Hagia Sophia was built during the reign of Constantius II (lived 317—361, reigned 337—361 AD), the son of Constantine the Great (lived 272—337 AD, reigned 306—324 AD). It was a simpler building than the one we see today, with a wooden roof. It was burned down during riots in 404 AD.

415 AD: The Second Hagia Sophia

The second Hagia Sophia was built by Emperor Theodosius II (lived 401—450, reigned 402—450 AD). Both the Hagia Sophia and the nearby Hagia Irene were part of the same complex, both enclosed by the same walls and served by the same clergy. The second Hagia Sophia was burned down in the “Nika Riot” in 532 AD. You can still see architectural pieces from the second Hagia Sophia in the courtyard of the Hagia Sophia today.

537 AD: The Third Hagia Sophia

After five years and ten months of construction, the Hagia Sophia we have today was completed and consecrated. Emperor Justinian I (lived 482—565, reigned 527—565 AD) used mathematicians instead of architects for the design, namely Isidore of Miletus and Anthemius of Tralles. For a thousand years, it was the largest interior space in the world.

The structure of the 537 AD building was the same as it is today, but its exterior design was very different. The exterior was covered with white marble, and parts were gilded, making the building gleam in the sunlight.

Numerous earthquakes damaged the Hagia Sophia, so flying buttresses were added to reinforce its walls at some point.

1204 AD: The Fourth (Latin) Crusade

During the Fourth Crusade, Istanbul was sacked and looted by European crusaders. Many of the Hagia Sophia treasures were destroyed, or stolen and taken to Venice. Anything that had metal on it, especially gold, was stripped. A singing prostitute was placed on the altar to desecrate it; then it was smashed into pieces. The Latins converted the Hagia Sophia into a Catholic church and created the Latin Empire of Constantinople.

1261 AD: Constantinople Recaptured

Michael VIII Paşaeologus recaptured Constantinople, and the Hagia Sophia was converted back to an Eastern Orthodox Church.

1435: Ottoman Turks Conquer Constantinople

The Ottomans, under Mehmet the Conqueror, sacked Istanbul. The Turks added a minbar and a mihrab to the interior, and four minarets to the exterior. All mosaics were plastered over. This was a good thing because the plaster preserved the mosaics so we could enjoy them today.

1847 to 1850: Hagia Sophia Renovated

Sultan Abdulmejid (reigned 1823—1861) had the Hagia Sophia renovated by Swiss-Italian architects and brothers Gaspare and Giuseppe Fossati. Some mosaics were uncovered in the interior; then some were recovered to preserve them. Medalions were hung in the nave bearing the names of Allah, Mohammed, the first four caliphs, and two grandsons of Mohammed.

The brothers strengthened and reinforced the dome and walls and leveled the minarets. The exterior walls were covered with a red and yellow colored stucco.

1934: Hagia Sophia Becomes a Museum

Turkish Prime Minister Mustafa Kemal Atatürk converted the Hagia Sophia into a museum. Mosaics that were covered in plaster were uncovered and restored.

2020: Hagia Sophia Becomes a Mosque Again

Turkish President Recep Tayıp Erdoğan converted the Hagia Sophia back into a mosque. The upper galleries were closed, and some of the artwork in the nave was covered with cloth.

Visiting the Hagia Sophia

The main entrance is on the southwest side, into a courtyard. The courtyard exhibits grave stelae, columns, column capitals, and architectural fragments found in various parts of the city and parts of the second Hagia Sophia.

Outer Narthex

The Outer Narthex, or Exonarthex, is the unroofed outer entrance. It contains a sarcophagus that once contained the remains of Empress Irene of Hungary (lived 1088—1134), wife of Emperor John II Komnenus (lived 1087—1143, reigned 1118—1143).

Inner Narthex

The inner narthex, which is seven meters high and dates to the sixth century, was said to have been made of wood from Noah’s Ark. It has an elaborately decorated vaulted ceiling and marble slabs on its walls.

The Great Door (also called the Imperial Gate) leading to the interior of the Hagia Sophia could only be used by the emperor and his entourage. Today, it is the main entrance for tourists. Above the great door is a mosaic of an enthroned Christ holding a book in one hand and raising the other in a sign of blessing. Two round portrayals of the Virgin Mary and the Archangel Gabriel flanked this. The prostrate person on the right of Christ is thought to be Emperor Leo VI the Wise (lived 866—912, reigned 886—912 AD).

Nave

The Nave of the Hagia Sophia is 76 meters (250 feet) long, 30.4 meters (100 feet) wide, and 54.6 meters (179 feet) from the floor to the top center of the dome.

Dome

The Dome of the Hagia Sophia is 32.6 meters (107 feet) in diameter and 14.6 meters (48 feet) high. It has 40 windows. The dome is supported by four massive pillars and pendentives decorated with seraphim mosaics (six-winged angels). As many early Christians said, it appears to float as if suspended from heaven. In the center was a mosaic of Christ Pantocrator (The Almighty) holding a closed book with a cross in one hand and making a gesture of teaching or blessing with the other. This mosaic fell off during an earthquake or was chipped off. It was replaced during the 1887—1850 renovation with a verse from the Koran.

Apse

At the opposite end of the Great Door entrance, the apse has a fine mosaic of Mary, Mother of God, and the Christ child in its conch. Because it is between Mecca and Muslims praying toward Mecca, it is now mostly covered with a hanging cloth, but you can peek at it from the sides.

At the bottom right of the arch and in front of the conch and the mosaic of Mary and the Christ child is a mosaic of the Archangel Gabriel with wings and a halo. On the bottom left is a ruined depiction of the Archangel Michael. It is badly damaged.

Also in the apse is a mihrab, a member, and two wooden discs bearing the names of Allah, Mohammed, two of the first caliphs, and two of Mohammed’s grandsons.

Floor

The floor of the Hagia Sophia is paved with slabs of white Proconnesian Marble, patterned with gray wavy grain and aligned side-by-side to mimic the waves of the sea.

The Ophalion, or “Navel of the Earth, ” is located in the southeast corner of the nave. It consists of a 3.2-meter (10.5-foot) diameter disk of grey granite surrounded by smaller disks of various colors and sizes with white borders. There are 32 disks in total. The central disk marked the location of the emperor’s throne during coronations.

Urns

Just inside the Great Door are two urns, each carved from a single block of marble. They are from the Hellenistic period and were brought from Pergamum. Each urn has a capacity of 1250 liters. They were a gift of Sultan Murat III (reigned 1574—1595), and were filled with water so Muslim worshippers could purify themselves before prayers.

Sweating Pillar

The Sweating Pillar, or Wishing Column, is in the northwest corner of the nave. According to Byzantine tradition, Saint Gregory Thaumaturgus (The Wonderworker, lived c. 213—270 AD) miraculously appeared in the Hagia Sophia shortly after it was completed. Saint Gregory put healing powers into the pillar, causing it to sweat. It was said to cure eye diseases and fertility problems. The pillar has a hole into which a person seeking to be cured would insert their thumb or finger, then turn it 360 degrees. The person would then touch the part of the body with the wet finger or thumb that needed to be healed.

North Tympanum Wall

The North Tympanum Wall is on the left as you are facing the apse. It features three 9th-century mosaic portraits of the famous church fathers Saint Ignatius the Younger, Saint John Chrysostom (golden-mouthed), and Saint Ignatios Theophoros. Each holds a Bible in their left hand. There were originally 14 portraits, seven on each side of the nave, but only three remained after the renovation of the Hagia Sophia by the Fossati Brothers in the 1840s. The others were covered in plaster and painted over with circular floral designs.

Upper Galleries

On both sides of the apse are upper galleries.

South Gallery

On the right, as you are facing the apse, this gallery was reserved for the imperial family and the clergy. Occasionally, the emperor would address the congregation from there.

North Gallery

Women used the north gallery during church services, but it was also open to men at certain times.

West Gallery

The West Gallery, also called the Loggia of the Empress, is in the back of the nave on the opposite side of the apse. The empress would sit here during church services. A green stone disk is on the floor where her throne was placed.

Vestibule of Warriors and Exit

On the ground level in the nave, you will walk through the Vestibule of the Warriors as you leave. This is an anteroom where the emperor’s bodyguards would wait. As you go, look back at the tympanum above the door to see a mosaic of Mary and the Christ Child. On the left is believed to be Emperor Basil II (lived 958—1025, reigned 976—1025) offering a model of the Hagia Sophia. On the right is Constantine the Great, who offers a model of the gate of Constantinople.

Exterior Precincts

Byzantine Baptistry

As you exit the Hagia Sophia, the domed building to the left, containing a large tub, was a Byzantine baptistery.

Muvakkitane

To the left of the street exit is the mosque’s clock room, which housed the mosque’s timekeeper. On the southwest corner, there is a sundial.

Imperial Ottoman Tombs

Several Ottoman Sultans and their families are interred in tombs here.

Türbe of the Princes

This türbe contains the remains of five infant sons of Sultan Murat IV (lived 1612—1640, reigned 1623- 1640). They were victims of an epidemic that swept through the harem.

Türbe of Sultan Murat III

This türbe contains the remains of Sultan Murat III (lived 1546—1595, reigned 1574—1595) and his wife, Safiye, four of his concubines, 25 of his sons, and 25 of his daughters. He had 40 concubines and fathered 130 sons and countless daughters.

Türbe of Selim II

This Türbe contains the remains of Sultan Selim II (lived 1524—1574, reigned 1566- 1574), also called Selim the Sot for his near constant drunkenness. It also contains the remains of his first wife, Nur Banu, and five of his sons whom Nur Banu had murdered to ensure the succession of her son, Murat III, to the throne. It also contains the bodies of three of Selim’s daughters and 32 of his grandchildren, the children of Murat III.

Türbe of Mehmet III

This octagonal building contains the remains of Sultan Mehmet III (lived 1566—1603, reigned 1595—1603). After his father and predecessor, Murat III, died and Mehmet III became sultan, Mehmet ordered the execution of his 19 brothers, many of them children or infants, so there could be no contenders for the throne. The practice of killing the brothers of a new sultan was eventually abandoned. Instead, the brothers of a new sultan were confined in “kafes,” luxurious palace prisons where they were provided everything but their freedom.

Opening Hours of the Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia is open daily from 9:00 AM to 7:30 PM. The central part is closed to visitors during posted prayer times. The ticket office closes 30 minutes before closing time.

Tips for Visiting the Hagia Sophia

Get There Early in the Morning

Get there at around 08:30 AM. If there is a line, it will be short. If you wait until 9:00, there will be a long line. You may have difficulty finding breakfast so early, but you can bring something to drink and buy a simit from one of the simit stands just outside the Hagia Sophia.

Dress Modestly

The Hagia Sophia is now a functioning mosque, so respectful dress and behavior are required.

• Men and women must wear clothing that covers their shoulders.
• Women must cover their heads with a scarf (if you don’t have one, they are provided at the entrances)
• Wear trousers or shorts that go past the knees (if your shorts are too short, you can get a wrap at the entrance).
• Remove your shoes before entering (boxes are provided to store your shoes).

Behave Properly

• Be respectful and quiet.
• Turn off your mobile phone or silence it.
• Don’t lean against walls or anything else.
• Don’t walk closely around a person praying (sometimes people pray outside of prayer times).
• If you take photos, don’t use flash.